I never used an adjustment layer for correcting WB. In GIMP I pick the colour of a white/gray point and then apply correction on the three axises (B-Y, C-R and M-G) until it becomes neutral gray (R=B=G). Then for all of the shots from the same set, I can apply the same correction.
In Bibble  you can adjust WB much more easily with the Click WB tool, remember the settings for colour temperature and tint and apply it for all of the shots in the set.
Anyway, you should better make a One shot WB over the white card before you start. This will save time later.
A guy here gave a great idea how to set precise WB for any scene - remove the lens, place the camera without lens, facing the photographer's position, where the model will stand, and take WB in this way. Should be extremely precise, but requires you to detach the lens and expose the internals of the camera to dust etc. for a few seconds.

Having a calibrated 18% gray card may give you much better exposure control and consistency of the results from the same set - you should set the camera to M, use Spot metering to adjust exposure for the the card, placed where your object will be, and the shoot the set with this exposure. Much care must be applied not to accidentally change the settings and not to let the model leave the spot where exposure was measured.