Author Topic: Panasonic with legacy lens ? (Read 980 times)

asterinex · « **on:** November 08, 2011, 09:04:51 AM »

Now prices of gf1, gf2, gf3 are falling, I was wondering how pana bodies without IS work with manual focus lenses.
Is it difficult? Lot of blurry pictures?
How does it compare to a Pen with IS?

cosinaphile · « **Reply #1 on:** November 08, 2011, 09:26:08 AM »

is is better , but ive used mf lenses with the gf1 and they work great , i use the rule of thumb that a 50mm lens ona m43 sensor needs about 1\100 sec or faster for decent sharpness but ive habdheld still subjects down tomaybe 1\30 ....11\25 sec with good results

but im biased ....i love using manual glass with micro 4\3

Em5 Pete · « **Reply #2 on:** November 08, 2011, 10:30:47 AM »

It is easy, like and Older SLR that just a full focusing screen w/o a center aid... us older guys, remember that,, and using MF cameras...
BUT, the new "Picture in Picture" on the new panys is a PLUS... (at 4x)....

Just practice, and find solid edges to include if you can..Use a Speed at least equal to the TRUE focal length....even better for the adjusted FOV, if you can..) so for 50mm (min 1/60 or 1/45) and hold your breath during exposure... but 1/100 is better...You should hold your breath at speeds lower than 1/60 even with IBS.... too many get lazy, or just don't have habits from the NON IBS days....Dropping good technique because of technology, doesn't always work out, if doing so. losses your shot.

IT IS STILL A 50mm with a 50mm image circle for a 35mm frame (24x36)... the smaller sensor only sees the 14x17 area inside the 24x36 image circle it produces, thus, a 2x crop factor. Similar to a Tilt/Shift lens.. a 35mm T/S will really have an image circle for a larger format... maybe 6x4.5 to allow for the shifting of the elements without cutting off the 24x36 image size.

A short lesson.... Haha....

cosinaphile · « **Reply #3 on:** November 08, 2011, 10:41:33 AM »

good explaination there .... but the greater "magnification" on the given focal l over shooting on 35 increases vibration and hand tremor by i believe a factor of 2 .......that why i feel the ss need to be the reciprocal of the lens if it were on a 35mm film or full frame camera ....just as a speed handhold rule of thumnb

voyager · « **Reply #4 on:** November 08, 2011, 06:11:23 PM »

You'll find it a lot more difficult than you think. The general rule is to double the exposure of what your focal length is. So 35mm you should use at least 1/80th second. Otherwise it's very easy to get blur.

cosinaphile · « **Reply #5 on:** November 08, 2011, 08:55:01 PM »

the rule of thumb ive always used is double the reciprocal of the lens on m 4\3 so a 50 mm at 1\100 a 200mm is 1\400 sec etc

the way i see it tremors of the hand and shake and sway are doubled when going from full frame to micro 4\3 as less of the sensor used increases magnification

long teles need highershutter speeds for exactly this reason ..... greater magnification

i still try to shot at slower shutter speeds all the time and the olympus helps a bit with vibration reduction dialed in for legacy glass

asterinex · « **Reply #6 on:** November 08, 2011, 09:06:20 PM »

I am an A-shooter (Aperture Priority Mode).
If I'm correct I have to convert to a P Shooter...(

voyager · « **Reply #7 on:** November 08, 2011, 09:17:24 PM »

Or Manual.

asterinex · « **Reply #8 on:** November 08, 2011, 09:22:14 PM »

Quote from: voyager on November 08, 2011, 09:17:24 PM

Or Manual.

Ok , I Stay with Olympus then

Dirty Ernie · « **Reply #9 on:** November 08, 2011, 09:29:32 PM »

"A" as in Aperture Priority, where you set the aperture on the lens, the camera selects the correct shutter speed DOES work on both Olympus and Panasonic bodies, at least the ones I've used, E-PL1, GH1, G1 and G3. "P" as in "Program" and "S" as in "Shutter Priority" mode will not work correctly as the camera cannot set the aperture of the legacy lens, as there is no mechanism on any M4/3rds camera to do that... And as Voyager mentioned, Manual mode works too.

asterinex · « **Reply #10 on:** November 08, 2011, 10:24:51 PM »

Quote from: Dirty Ernie on November 08, 2011, 09:29:32 PM

"A" as in Aperture Priority, where you set the aperture on the lens, the camera selects the correct shutter speed DOES work on both Olympus and Panasonic bodies, at least the ones I've used, E-PL1, GH1, G1 and G3. "P" as in "Program" and "S" as in "Shutter Priority" mode will not work correctly as the camera cannot set the aperture of the legacy lens, as there is no mechanism on any M4/3rds camera to do that... And as Voyager mentioned, Manual mode works too.

Ok, So A-Mode works also, but does the pana calculates the correct shutter speed. I mean does the camera takes into account that there is no IBIS (on the lens) ?

voyager · « **Reply #11 on:** November 08, 2011, 10:28:03 PM »

No. It doesn't take any rules into account. What your camera does in A mode is it uses the aperture that you've selected and selects an appropriate shutter speed to "correctly" expose the image with the ISO that you've set. The best way to try this out is to take some test photos and see what your camera tries to do on each photo, and then change things around until it looks right. Also, you might want to adjust the exposure compensation (EV) to overexpose your photos by at least a half a stop. Micro Four Thirds cameras are notorious for underexposing. Let us know if you have any other questions!

asterinex · « **Reply #12 on:** November 09, 2011, 02:41:00 AM »

Thx, I'm learning again ! I realise I'm still a beginner

I will definitely try that out.

Panasonic with legacy lens ?