Author Topic: EP-1/EP-2 Contrast and Gradation settings for Black and White Images (Read 2575 times)

Cirrus1 · « **on:** December 09, 2010, 11:22:13 AM »

I have yet to test this so I was wondering if anyone else had. I would say that dynamic range is a limiting factor for the EP-1 and Digital cameras in general. This is really not an issue for color as the photographer can make exposures as you would shooting slide film ie; expose for the highlights and let the shadows fall where they may. But for Black and White this seems to not be the most ideal way as the shadows are very important in a black and white image. Has anyone worked with the contrast settings and gradation settings to try and get more range? Does this even work? Are there any more stops to be gained from shooting raw? n2hhr's infrared images (which are stunning by the way!) seem to have more range than normal. What to do? This post was stimulated by reading a post on Rangefinder forum where most participants work with film, they all lamented the "look" and "lack of dynamic range" of digital black and white. I remember thinking the same thing when I first started doing digital black and white but now I am used to it.
Anyone care to chime in with their thoughts?

voyager · « **Reply #1 on:** December 10, 2010, 02:28:16 PM »

It's not really possible to do this, I tried it with the sunrise photos that I took a few weeks ago. There's just too much of a loss of detail in the blown out areas.

cosinaphile · « **Reply #2 on:** December 13, 2010, 05:44:47 AM »

i think someone should run some tests to see which gradation setting works best ie clipping highlights

adash · « **Reply #3 on:** December 13, 2010, 06:20:35 AM »

Dial negative exposure compensation until you see no clipping highlights. Use your preferred photo editing software to adjust shadow detail, etc.

Centauri27 · « **Reply #4 on:** December 13, 2010, 12:01:08 PM »

I would imagine shooting RAW should help--tests have shown that RAW gives the PEN another stop or two in dynamic range. Once in RAW you can play around with the gradation settings to see if it improves the image.

Em5 Pete · « **Reply #5 on:** December 13, 2010, 01:05:17 PM »

Dial down your contrast to it's lowest setting,
Use your spot meter and meter your mid-tones,
make sure the histogram is a little to the left of the "Right Edge"
In you post work, if you have a controls for separate tonal ranges, you can increase or decrease local tones to get what you want.
(my software as 9 sliders from shadows to highlights, ACDSee Pro 3 Manager)
It is a bit tougher using curves...

but having a low contrast file will make it easier to work with.

Cirrus1 · « **Reply #6 on:** December 13, 2010, 02:16:43 PM »

Thanks for all of the reply's! I guess I am going to do some experimenting with the contrast and gradation settings. I will report back. Tempted to start shooting bracketed exposures on a tripod but I have really gotten lazy in the last 5 years and prefer to shoot hand held JPEGs.

Synaesthesia · « **Reply #7 on:** December 14, 2010, 12:40:58 AM »

Just turn on automatic exposure bracketing and take 3 quick photos in succession - it's what I do when I'm not sure.

peterb666 · « **Reply #8 on:** December 14, 2010, 03:05:07 AM »

Use the histogram and shoot RAW. You can get a little bit back if you "shoot to the right" in RAW but if you underexpose, noise climbs very quickly.

EP-1/EP-2 Contrast and Gradation settings for Black and White Images