Author Topic: total beginner flash help please! (Read 1568 times)

phooboo · « **on:** February 27, 2011, 12:16:04 PM »

Ok, before anyone jumps, this is my first real camera, and so i am really new to all the bits 'n bobs! (thats why i came to the beginners corner, right

)

I've been shooting for a couple weeks now, and am really really happy with my results etc, problem is when it comes to indoor lighting.

One of my biggest pushes to get a decent camera was i was so fed up with those "flash in your face" pictures! that i said its time to upgrade.

I am very confused as to what flash i can use with my e-p1 (ie what is compatible)... what will work and understand everything on its own (TTL?!?)...etc etc..

I do want a flash that will let me bounce of walls etc (i think thats important for very passive lighting... tell me if its not)

also, does the flash have to be attached? what is a slave flash (do they exist for e-p1?) and if a want a wireless flash for more advanced projects is that possible for the e-p1...

thank you in advance for anyone kind enough to help out a newbie who is really enjoying himself and would like to move up to the next level (without spending too much

)

Tercha · « **Reply #1 on:** February 27, 2011, 12:31:46 PM »

Here is a chart from the Olympus website that may help:

adash · « **Reply #2 on:** February 28, 2011, 01:08:13 AM »

Quote

I am very confused as to what flash i can use with my e-p1 (ie what is compatible)... what will work and understand everything on its own (TTL?!?)...etc etc..

You can use any comparably modern electronic manual flashgun.
Please note that there is a recommendation about trigger voltage being lower than 12V or similar (if unsure measure it or google "flash model trigger voltage").
Being a manual flashgun, it will require you to adjust aperture for every shot depending on subject distance (M mode being the only available when using such).
You can use also an automatic (a.k.a. computerized) flashgun. Such a flashgun will regulate its output depending on subject distance and scene reflectivity and will give some more consistent results, as long as you keep ISO and aperture the same as the computer program in the flashgun. M mode is again the only reasonable choice.
The most recommended for beginners and generally most convenient for use are the dedicated (also called TTL, because of the Through The Lens metering that they utilize) flashes. Tercha gave some reference from the Oly website, but there are also third party TLL flashguns with 4/3 and m4/3 dedication by Nissin, Metz etc.
If you wish to go to the third party route, make sure you buy a flashgun that is dedicated to 4/3 and m4/3 system. Some sellers will sometimes list their flashes as compatible with many systems, but these are usually flashguns that are not dedicated to either.
A dedicated (TTL) flash will allow you to get consistent results with every camera mode.

Quote

what is a slave flash (do they exist for e-p1?) and if a want a wireless flash for more advanced projects is that possible for the e-p1...

There are many slave flashes, some of which will also ignore pre-flash (my jessops 280D digital will, for example), but as far as I know, none will allow dedicated control form e-p1. You will still need a master flash to trigger them.
I have been successfully using a Metz mecablitz 36AF-4 dedicated to Olympus with a third party TTL cable and that allows both some flexibility in positioning the light and truly dedicated operation. It also allows the smaller (~85cm) umbrellas to be used as light modifiers because they don't interfere with the cable.
The other way to make a complicated lighting setup is to use wireless radio triggers. I can't recommend any make or model though.

phooboo · « **Reply #3 on:** March 01, 2011, 06:27:08 AM »

thank you for your help.

Adash, you really helped me clear things up! i was so unclear as to what is/is not compatible... i think things are a lot clearer now... its not so much if the flash will work but more how much i want the flash to be automatic/manual.

i am quite comfortable using the manual only function on the camera, i like having all the control... (and a friend gave me three russian industar/jupiter lenses which can only be used manual...) so i might go for a manual flash...

are there any other major reasons to go for a TTL flash other than this?

Thanks again lads

P.

adash · « **Reply #4 on:** March 01, 2011, 09:18:33 AM »

My Metz mecablitz 36AF-4 works perfectly with any manual lens, not depending on aperture etc. It even works with macro attachments and better than 1x magnification.
Please make sure you are buying a Panasonic/Olympus dedicated flash. Also prefer the latest versions in order to avoid compatibility issues and costly returns for software update etc.
BTW, you can buy a manual flash for less than $10, just make sure it has a safe low trigger voltage. I stand corrected about Oly's recommendation, someone noted that E-P1 manual states it has to be lower than 6.5V.

lisandra · « **Reply #5 on:** March 02, 2011, 04:38:31 PM »

for starters dont get into expensive wireless flash before you know if its for you. You can get a reeeally inexpensive transmiter/receiver combo in amazon (type in wireless flash trigger, its like 40$) and play with it around the house with whatever flash you do get. Dont expect it to work from reeeally far away or through objects (you need a pocket wizard for that) but it works great for the price. Ill be doing some stuff like that on the weekend if youre interested, you could wait for my results to see if you like. Also, while you wait, the absolute bible for flash is www.strobist.blogspot.com, scroll down a bit and click on the lightning 101 tab, It goes from the completely basic to the most complex. Hope it helps and if you want samples right now everything mine that has to do with cars on the panny gallery was with a bounced flash.

lisandra · « **Reply #6 on:** March 02, 2011, 06:48:23 PM »

also, if you get a full powr flash (one that lets you shoot at shutter speeds higher than 1/160) you can do semi HDR images like this one and get both background and foreground correctly exposed.

Details

pretzston · « **Reply #7 on:** March 14, 2011, 08:16:23 AM »

Quote from: lisandra on March 02, 2011, 06:48:23 PM

also, if you get a full powr flash (one that lets you shoot at shutter speeds higher than 1/160) you can do semi HDR images like this one and get both background and foreground correctly exposed.
Details

Very cool.

Centauri27 · « **Reply #8 on:** March 14, 2011, 12:16:47 PM »

To throw in my 2 cents, I've been wrestling with flash on my E-P1 as well. I have the FL-14 unit (which I bought more for portability than anything else) and found it can do a decent job on TTL-Auto. In this mode, it seems to output minimal lighting, preserving the "available light" look as much as possible. The "Auto" mode on t he other hand, results in your typical "flash" look that everyone tries to avoid.

I know that all Olympus "FL" flash units work on the PENs, but like all flashes from camera makes, they are very expensive and overpriced in my opinion. I have not tried any 3rd party units.

total beginner flash help please!