Author Topic: Flash for the E-P3? (Read 1175 times)

mynameisjonas · « **on:** January 13, 2012, 03:55:58 AM »

I'm thinking of picking up a flash to use with my E-P3 (and E-P1), and I've been looking at the Olympus FL-36R. Now, I don't know anything whatsoever about using external flash units, so forgive me if this is a stupid question: Could this flash be used on non-Olympus cameras as well? And could flashes from other manufacturers be used on my PENs?

Jman · « **Reply #1 on:** January 14, 2012, 05:12:16 AM »

If you want full TTL metering, you will need a flash that is made for Oly/Panasonic. That is, any of the olympus flashes, the Panasonic flashes, or third party flashes made for Oly/Panny. I use a Metz 50 AF-1 flashgun...it's large, but it's very full featured with a good bit of power and relatively quick recycling. It is about twice the size of my GX1, though. Due to the power, it is useful for bounce flash in a variety of situations. Flash photography is somewhat difficult to do well, but once you start learning what works and what doesn't, your picture can dramatically improve.

Other flashes for other cameras can work, provided the flash trigger voltage is low. Some older units can have very high trigger voltage that can fry the camera, so be careful if you're going for an old flash, but any modern Canon or Nikon flash will work, but only in manual mode (you will need to directly set flash power). I have several manual flashes that will work, but I use them for my strobe kit (I trigger them via PC cord and optical slave, while they are on light stands).

voyager · « **Reply #2 on:** January 14, 2012, 02:19:45 PM »

How much power and control of your flash do you want?

mynameisjonas · « **Reply #3 on:** January 14, 2012, 02:29:33 PM »

Quote from: Jman on January 14, 2012, 05:12:16 AM

If you want full TTL metering, you will need a flash that is made for Oly/Panasonic. That is, any of the olympus flashes, the Panasonic flashes, or third party flashes made for Oly/Panny. I use a Metz 50 AF-1 flashgun...it's large, but it's very full featured with a good bit of power and relatively quick recycling. It is about twice the size of my GX1, though. Due to the power, it is useful for bounce flash in a variety of situations. Flash photography is somewhat difficult to do well, but once you start learning what works and what doesn't, your picture can dramatically improve.

Other flashes for other cameras can work, provided the flash trigger voltage is low. Some older units can have very high trigger voltage that can fry the camera, so be careful if you're going for an old flash, but any modern Canon or Nikon flash will work, but only in manual mode (you will need to directly set flash power). I have several manual flashes that will work, but I use them for my strobe kit (I trigger them via PC cord and optical slave, while they are on light stands).

I'd definitely want to be able to do TTL auto, since I'm totally clueless... now I know what to look for. Thanks for the advice, much appreciated.

mynameisjonas · « **Reply #4 on:** January 14, 2012, 02:34:12 PM »

Quote from: voyager on January 14, 2012, 02:19:45 PM

How much power and control of your flash do you want?

Enough power to bounce succesfully in most indoor situations, and I want to be able to point it in various directions. I've looked at the FL-14 and FL-300, but they seem a bit too limited.

voyager · « **Reply #5 on:** January 14, 2012, 03:05:56 PM »

A medium level flash is probably best then. Gives you the ability to bounce.

peterb666 · « **Reply #6 on:** January 18, 2012, 11:32:15 PM »

I currently use a Nissin Di466 Four Thirds flash which is excellent value for money. It doesn't have the swivel head but does go up for bounce flash and does have a built in diffuser and bounce card. Works well and has a built in optical slave.

The FL-360R is the flash to go for if you have the money but I do find it a little bulky and pricy. It gives you the swivel head and high-speed sync which are very useful.

I also have the FL-14 but rarely use it other than to optically trigger slave flashes.

count_zero · « **Reply #7 on:** January 19, 2012, 02:40:22 AM »

For the EP-3 I would go with the FL-36R simply because it has more power than the FL-300 and a few more features like swivel, zoom head, and high speed sync. The FL-14 is useless for the E-P3 considering that the EP-3 GN is 10, so your not really getting much more power with the FL-14. It seems to me that the FL-300 should have been the flash released with the E-P1 instead of that crappy little over priced "retro" box called the FL-14. At least you can leave the FL-300 on camera and fold it down for compactness, not to mention aim it up for bounce. Plus, the FL-300 will do 9mm angle of coverage, where the FL-14 is fixed at 14mm.

peterb666 · « **Reply #8 on:** January 20, 2012, 11:02:44 PM »

Re the flash ratings, the E-P3 is GN10 @ ISO200 while the FL-14 is GN14 @ ISO100 & GN20 @ ISO200. I got my FL-14 at a huge discount but I wouldn't recommend a flash without bounce facilities.

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Flash for the E-P3?